adventures in china

I just returned from a 2-week trip to Shanghai, where the city never sleeps, the fake version of every designer is right at your fingertips, and you can find cheap, greasy chinese food on every corner...along with a starbucks :) Liz Frederick and Nick Anderson, two of my friends from college, are both teaching english over there while also holding onto a variety of other jobs. They were both recently on a reality t.v. show called Shanghai Rush (China version of The Amazing Race), they work at a restaurant, Nick does some modeling (no big thang :) ), and Liz also does some writing and editing for a newspaper. They are definitely living a life that's just slightly different from mine in the african bush... The fact that they have both lived there for 2 years made all the difference. They took us to the best restaurants and clubs, we saw temples and gardens right in the middle of the city, took a few overnight trips to gorgeous mountains and lakes, and got to go to starbucks on a daily basis! We also met a lot of their friends from all over the globe, even one guy from Zambia. They knew the best places to go and how to get there. We would have been completely lost without them. Among our various adventures were sleeping in the lobby of a hostel because there was no room at any inn, getting a facial and massage at a swanky spa, ordering pizza(another product of lazy american culture...love it) and watching pirated dvds all night, spending 4 hours exploring the 4 levels of the 'fake market', where you can get everything from Fendi shoes to Tiffany's jewelry to Prada bags at a fraction of the price (all knock-offs of course, but who knows besides you?), and sharing a bottle of wine on a bed on the roof of the Hyatt Regency in shanghai while looking over the night lights of the never-ending city. For two weeks we soaked up as much of the glamorous life as we could before coming back to flip-flops and mud huts.

The first thing I noticed upon arrival in the big city is that people weren't staring at me. The chinese seemed to go about their business (maybe glancing at me once because I'm taller than them with blonde hair) without really caring what I was up to. They seem to be really friendly toward foreigners but not in awe of them, whereas Zambians are interested in everything you are doing, and will stare at you without restriction as if you have an arm growing out the side of your head. I also noticed that the chinese, although interested and intrigued by western people and culture, display a deep pride in their country. Of course there is government control, but the chinese seemed to love china and have a deep appreciation and respect for its culture and traditions. Having lived in Zambia for a little over a year, I have found the lack of Zambian pride in Zambia to be a major source of frustration. I realize I'm making generalizations here, but Zambians are so intrigued by western culture that it is as if they want to be western. They try to look 'progressive' by wearing western clothes and hanging out with foreigners. Many Zambians I have met in Lusaka will speak about villagers living in the bush as backwards and ignorant. Its tragic when the westernization of this country attempts to erase its culture and traditions as if they aren't good enough anymore. I've previously written about a Zambia that is caught between two worlds, this dichotomy being the root of the problem of development here. Traveling to china made this Zambian psyche even more apparent to me. It also forces me to once again ask myself what good I am doing here, and if I should even be here. I know that Zambia needs to figure things out on its own and develop in its own way, but I can't help believing that I can do good by providing even the slightest little push in my community. I stay because I believe that Zambians should be proud of their culture and traditions, but that babies shouldn't be dying from diarrhea due to lack of clean water. I stay because I believe that when Zambians are empowered to stick up for themselves and demand more from their leaders, this country will change for the better, and I want so badly to witness that empowerment at the grassroots level, where I believe it should begin.

Being in China made me realize what I take for granted back in the states, allowing me to appreciate it so much more. I enjoyed taking a hot shower every morning and being able to blowdry my hair afterward...while also having a mirror to look in. I made full use of the coffee maker (what a marvelous invention!), slept like a baby on a spring mattress, enjoyed running water and electricity, and realized all over again what a huge fan I am of the sandwich. :) Of course, I appreciate the simple way of living in the bush and I missed the beauty of the blue sky and starry nights of Africa as well as the smell of wood burning as women cook over a fire and the sound of children singing throughout the village as the sun sets. Yet there's a different kind of beauty in a city, experienced as you look out over the span of apartment buildings and sky-scrapers and know that 20 million people are going about their everyday lives just as you are. There is beauty in the hush of steady traffic, in the flashing lights on buildings, in the ordered chaos of the city streets and sidewalks.

Now it's back to the african bush for me, and less than a year to go! In one week I'll be back down in Lusaka for mid-term conference and medical check-ups, then possibly making a trip down to Victoria Falls before getting back to work in the village. I'm praying my hut is still standing... the rains seem to have subsided and its back to beautiful sunny days...every day...here in Zamland. I hope you all are experiencing lovely weather as summertime approaches! I'll try to write again soon!

.peace&luv.

katie

You know you're a PCV in Zambia when...

Here's a list I've been working on in my hut from time to time...enjoy!

You Know You're a Peace Corps Volunteer in Zambia when...

1) You don't think twice about going potty in a plastic bag at night to avoid leaving your hut.

2) 30km is considered a 'pretty short' distance.

3) You hoard plastic Shoprite bags for their superior 'quality' in the world of plastic bags. a.k.a. you've become a crazy bag lady.

4) You have to resist the temptation to interior decorate with doilies.

5) You will drink and enjoy anything that is cold.

6) You refer to any home with bars on the windows as 'very fancy'. Glass windows are just way out of your league.

7) If your lap is empty on transport, there is always room for more people.

8) You immediately lose your ability to estimate distances, and waving your hand toward a certain place is considered giving directions.

9) You will go days without bathing because you honestly consider wet wipes to be a healthy alternative.

10) The word 'odi' makes you cringe. (Zambians say this before they enter your house...I guess it's equivalent to knocking on your door? Yet they tend to yell it loudly at 5:00 a.m. while also pounding on your door or even your window. The worst part is there is no Bemba word to tell them not to enter.)

11) If a problem arises, your first reaction is a single big long sigh.

12) You secretly enjoy some ZamPop. (Zambian pop music...tends to be pretty tragic)

13) Your menstrual cycle coincides with the moon cycles.

14) Spiders are no longer the enemy, but your trusted ally in the constant battle against bugs.

15) You carry toilet paper on you wherever you go.

on a related note...

16) You've had to wipe with Zambian Kwacha sans T.P. on more than one occasion.

17) You enjoy eating Nshima (cornmeal, staple Zambian food) and even crave it and order it at restaurants.

18) You've become used to being sexually harrassed on a daily basis.

19) Basically you have no shame. You can never act more crazy than Zambians already think you are. :)

20) You may or may not have multiple W.A.D.'s (Wierd African Disease the actual medical classification for unexplained diseases picked up in Africa)



I'm sure there will be many more to add in year 2 of my service...I'll try to keep updating. :)

That's all I've got for now...much luv to you all from zambia! Take care and happy easter!

katie